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Sabah in the island of Borneo

February 28, 2011 1 comment

booked my accomodation via agoda.com and Booking.com

Taking the opportunity whilst visiting friends in Kuching, I decided to visit Sabah, the only other Malaysian state aside from Sarawak in the island of Borneo.

Not knowing much about Sabah, I decided to visit the tourist information office. There the friendly locals advice me of the top 10 things to do in Sabah. I didn’t manage to achieve all 10 in that list, but I managed some. I am quite satisfied and would surely come back to explore this part of the island of Borneo more in the future.

1) First on the agenda is the ‘Wild Man of Borneo” One would say I should be sick of seeing theses animals as I had seen them in Sarawak, the other Malaysian state in this magnificent island of Borneo. But funnily enough, I find I still want more. So off I went to visit the world’s oldest and largest OrangUtan Rehabilitation Centre, located at Sepilok. These are where the orphans or pet orang-utans are taught how to survive independently in their natural habitat. These orang-Utans are in danger of extinction due to the rapid loss of their natural habitat. Modern men are fighting with the Wild man for space. Sad….
2) Rest & relaxation is something all tourists look for as part of their holiday. When you are in Sabah, indulge in lots of rest and relaxation in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, only 10 mins by boat from the capital Kota Kinabalu. This park is made up of 5 beautiful tropical sandy beaches namely Gaya, Mamutik, Manukan, Sapi and Sulug.

3) I am one of the ‘lazy’ tourists so I didn’t hike up the Kinabalu Park, a World First Heritage site, boasting the magnificent Mount Kinabalu. My brother who is more adventurous than me went up to the submit (4101meters). He reckons that is the highlight of his Sabah trip. This hike is not for tourists like me as it takes a minimum 2 days but along the way, you will be rewarded with exciting wildlife encounter.

4) While my brother was up the mountain, I was soaking it up in the Poring Hot Spring. Indeed a rejuvenating, natural and therapeutic hot spring. Here the sulphuric hot waters of the spring fed into the open-air Japanese style baths. I don’t have to go to Japan for this!

5) That night went to the Selingan Turtle Island and watched the giant turtles lay eggs on the beach. The eggs are then transferred to the hatchery by humans (a little helping hand from humans). There I witnessed the release of the baby’s turtles into the sea, apparently 365 days a year. Wonderful experience.

6) Rafting, now that is my cup of tea! I saw the local life from a rubber deck of a rapid raft. Sounds strange but this are truly wonderful. We head south to this small town of Kiulu and ride down one of Borneo’s scenic rivers over gentle rapids (just right for me), pass lush green jungle forest (neck cramp from looking for wild life), pass the local towns (dusuns), orchards and villages.
7) I am not a diver but I was told that if you are, don’t miss the Sipadan diving site, considered to be the world number one site. Fancy that! Sipadan offers deep and shallow diving, wreck and reef diving and snorkelling.
8) Nightlife in Sabah is fantastic, eating out at local food stalls at the waterfront with life music. Such is life…

9) The town of Sandakan or capital of Sabah is similar to most towns in Malaysia. I am not much of a shopper or temple fanatic but it is still a wonderful experience.
10) Sabah Museum is not as good as the Kuching Museum in the sister state of Sarawak (in my humble opinion) but within the 17.5 hectares of lush green natural and planted jungle (botanic and zoological gardens), lies the Sabah museum (full of Sabah rich cultural heritage).

If I were to visit Sabah again, I would still visit my favourites (listed above 1-6)


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10 Top Reasons to Holiday in Borneo

April 26, 2010 10 comments

10 Top Reasons to Holiday in Borneo

I booked my accomodation via agoda.com and Booking.com

There are more than 10 ten top reasons for visitors to visit the island of Borneo but I will limit my article to just top 10 things to do.
  1. Borneo has something that other parts of Malaysia and South East Asia simply don’t. Borneo has some of the finest wildlife on this planet. Man or Beast? What might be referring to? What else but the ‘Wildman of Borneo’. There is nothing like the experience of seeing such a magnificent creature in the flesh (or fur). The last wild orang-utans in Northern Borneo can be seen at the famed Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve in the State of Sabah. The State of Sarawak in Borneo is famous for its ‘Wildman of the Jungle’. That is at the Semonggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre in Kuching. Both places are worth a visit for some stories you can tell the grandkids about one day.
  2. Breathtaking scenery on the planet is another reason for tourists to travel and holiday in the island of Borneo. The Bako National Park established in 1957, is the oldest national park in Sarawak, on the island of Borneo. Although Bako is one of the smallest national parks in Sarawak, yet one of the most interesting, with its rainforest, abundant wildlife (literally), jungle streams, waterfalls, interesting plant life, secluded beaches and trekking trails. For those tourists heading to the State of Sabah, many visitors may enjoy the Kinabalu National Park and the Crocker Range Park. I personally prefer the Bako National Park.
  3. Bushwalkers would love the various national parks mentioned in these article. The jungle trekking can be really considered ‘jungle trekking’ if you choose to be just a bit adventurous. A friend of mine went off the beaten track but luckily found their way back using plastic bags tied to trees as their roadmap. Obviously previous trekkers left them there. But the ‘lost trekkers had a ball, seeing many wildlife such as wild boars, monkeys etc.

  4.  Sea/Ocean lovers/Divers who visit the island of Borneo would come to enjoy the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Situated just off the west shore of Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, the five emerald isles that comprise this park are fringed with white sandy beaches, surrounded by the sparkling aqua waters of the South China Sea. The islands’ offshore reefs are filled with exotic corals and sponges and abound in tropical marine life. The islands are easily accessible, and each of the five possesses its own particular charms. Another diver’s paradise is the Pulau Sipadan. Acknowledged as one of the best diving and unique spots in Southeast Asia, Pulau Sipadan is located off the small coastal town of Semporna on Sabah’s eastern coast. Myriad of colourful tropical fish swim in the warm water near the surface whereas huge groupers nose about.

  5. Festivals are one of Borneo’s tourist programs. From Borneo’s rainforests, look up and be dazzled by another spectacular sight. Once a year, see the launch (quite literally) of the fifth Borneo International Kite Festival. The extravaganza attracts thousands of visitors who can sign up to compete in the numerous kite flying and kite making competitions. Keep 30th September to 3rd October, 2010 in your diary as the time when you must be in Bintulu, Sarawak to see some of the most colourful, intriguing and strange looking kites from around the world.
  6. Environmentally Aware Borneo is another name that tourists are aware off and environmentally awareness is definitely on the increase. One of the universities in Borneo is even offering a program on this and is attended by many international students. So you can kick back in your luxury eco-villa without having to worry too much about offsetting your carbon emissions.
  7. Golf Lovers, well now you don’t have to sweat in the heat whilst playing golf in Asian countries. Sitting on the mountain plateau, 1,000 meters above sea level, on the Penrissen Range amongst the world’s oldest and second largest rainforest, Borneo Highlands Resort in Sarawak offers a myriad of attractions, from the enchanting Jungle Spa to the spectacular Hornbill Golf Course. Bask to Nature, back to basic is their logo and that is true the only restaurant on the resort only offer organic and vegetarian food. Yes, I have been there and the food is delicious even though I am a carnivore!
  8. Culture is what differentiates one country/state with the next. In Sabah there is the famous Mengkabong Water Village about some half an hour drive from Kota Kinabalu. This famous Mengkabong Water Village are populated by people whose houses are built on stilt and linked by a maze of rickety plank walks. An ever increasing population has seen the water village gradually expanding into the sea! However in Sarawak, the indigenous people are mostly living in the jungle in longhouses. Yes they are literally long houses! The longhouse I visited is the famous Annah Rais Longhouse in Kuching. It is a large & old Bidayuh Tribe’s Longhouse that houses over 80 families. Majority of them still live in a traditional way of longhouse’s living. It has 175 years old written history to date. Visitor may participate in our Longhouse Adventure Program, which include longhouse accommodation, traditional meals & tours to surrounding tropical rainforest in search for astonishing waterfalls & natural Hot Spring.
  9. Beaches of Borneo is another reason one must visit. They may not be as good as some of the Australian beaches but they certainly beat some of the European beaches by far. One of the best and worthwhile beaches is the Turtle Beach and Golden Beach, Similajau National Park, Sarawak. This park consists of 30 km of golden sand and cliffs with tropical wildlife all around and jungle streams, waterfalls and 185 species of bird and plenty of animals – including gibbons, macaques, turtles, wild boars and crocs. There are also other beaches not far from the main town area but they are medioca in my opinion.

10.   Lastly and not in that order, the people in the island of Borneo. They range from Malays, Chinese, and Indians to the local indigenous people. They are the friendliest bunch of people I have ever met. You can now tell that I am a ‘Borneo’ lover by now. Generous and obliging and making sure you have a great time on their island. Language is not a barriers as most speak English and their other currency of communication is their ‘Great Big Smile’.

 

 


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Old Souls Day (Qing Ming) in Kuching

April 4, 2010 9 comments

I booked my accomodation via agoda.com and Booking.com

 

Anyone heard of Old Souls Day in the Asian Culture? All Souls Day or Qing Ming (should not to be confused with the Roman Catholic “All Souls Day” (same name).

Qing Ming Festival:  Sometimes known as the Clear Bright Festival, Ancestors Day, Old Souls Day or Tomb Sweeping Day is a traditional Chinese festival on the 104th day after the winter solstice (or the 15th day from the Spring Equinox), usually occurring around April 5 of the Gregorian calendar.

Qing Ming has been regularly observed as a statutory public holiday in Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau. Qing Ming was reinstated as a public holiday in mainland China in 2008, after having been previously suppressed by the ruling Communist Party in 1949.

I had the opportunity this trip to be with friends in Kuching in the island of Borneo. It was explained to me that the Qing Ming Festival is an opportunity for the families of the deceased to remember, honor and give thanks to their ancestors at grave sites. Prior to praying and offering food, tea, wine, they swept the tombs and cleaned the ‘houses of the ancestors’ ie grave sites/tombs before burning the joss paper and paper accessories at the grave sites. Those papers accessories are paper replica of some material good such car, maid, home, phone, and etc. In Chinese culture, even though a person died, he/she may still need all of these in the afterlife. In Malaysia, the Chinese normally visit the graves of their late relations at the nearest weekend of the actual date.

I noted that a week before the festivals, the grounds were burnt to get rid of the tall grass surrounding the graves. I suppose since the grave sites are only visited once a year during Qing Ming, one would then expect the graveyard to be clean only once a year. I noted that this is quite different to the more modern graveyard where expenses are paid for graveyards & sites to be kept in good conditions all through the life of the tenure. I visited the site of one grandparent and they are sites where a plot of land and the tombstone are the only expenses paid for the ancestors in those days. No continuous maintenance fees, thus not as flash as the new graveyards with maintenance fees.


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I was also told that there should always an even number of dishes put in front of the grave and a bowl of rice with incense stick upright. (Now I understand why I am not allowed to served a bowl of rice with my chopsticks standing upright in the rice bowl, as it resembles serving of ice for the deceased !) The rituals for praying are: family members take turn to bow before the tomb of the ancestors. Bowing will go in order, which starts with the most senior member of the family and so on. Traditionally, after the ancestor worship at the grave site, the whole family or the whole clan would be feasting the food and drinks they brought for the worship at a site nearby, signifying family reunion with the ancestors. However, I was told by this family that because everyone is time poor, nowadays people tend to just go home after praying, unless everyone had to travel very far to get to the gravesites eg from the town to countryside etc, then they tend to have their lunch together before heading home.

These Qing Ming rituals have a long tradition especially among farmers in the rural farming areas especially in China. I read that some people carry willow branches with them on Qing Ming, or put willow branches on their gates and/or front doors. They believe that willow branches help ward off the evil spirit that wanders on Qing Ming. Also on Qing Ming people go on family outings, start the spring plowing, sing, and dance. You won’t associate Qing Ming as a time where young couples start courting but they apparently did in the olden days.

Chinese of Christian faith tend not to follow the traditions of offering food and praying with joss sticks. They tend to bring flowers to the gravesite and say prayers without burning paper, incense.

When I went to visit one of the grave sites, I asked about the solitary temple at the graveyard. I was informed by the caretaker that Qing Ming in Malaysia for all overseas Chinese is a family obligation. They have an elaborate family function or a clan feast (usually organized by the respective clan association) to commemorate and honor their late relations at grave site and their distant ancestry of China at home altar, clan temple or a makeshift altar in a Buddhist or Taoist temple.


Borneo, Kuching, Malaysia , , , , ,

Kuching Past and Present

March 21, 2010 4 comments

I booked my accomodation via agoda.com and Booking.com

Sarawak Museum

Sarawak Museum

Sqaure Tower
Sqaure Tower

A friend traveled to Kuching recently and it was his first time in more than 40 years and he was amazed of what changes had occurred since he was last in Kuching (where he used to live).

Kuching Riverside

Kuching Riverside

As he recalled in his mind, Kuching was still a small town with its main town Kuching Bau, Lundu and Serian. Across the Sarawak River around Astana and Fort Margherita are a few clusters of Malay villages. He used to consider them the poorer relatives as compared to the town side of the river. Even some of the richer and more educated Malay population lived on the town side of the Sarawak River. Now, that poorer side of the river is booming and that is where most of the Malays lived. Houses are huge and most of the Ministers eg the Chief Minister of Sarawak live in that part of town. There is nowKuching=Cat City the Cat Museum there and many utility companies and Government and expensive private schools such as Tunku Putra and the city municipal offices are relocated there from the old Kuching town near Electra House. Normah hospital (first big private hospital) is on that side of town as well. He feels that there is segregation between one side of the River and the other side. One side is al the government buildings are and on the other side of the river are the commercial business areas. He says from what he can see ,it’s looks like that the Malay population are living on theKuching Waterfront one other side of the Sarawak River and the other populations eg Chinese, Indians, migrants lived on this side of the Sarawak river as Kuching town as 2 mayors. One on each side of the river. He reckons it seems a very interesting concept and from what he heard, it seems to work very well.

In his mind, he remembered the main tow4158155[1]ns consisting of Kuching. Serian, Lundu, and Bau. To get to any holiday destination is a matter of driving long distances on mostly small gravel roads. Actually he recalled taking a slow small engine boat (4hours) to Santubong. Accommodation is a few scattered wooden bungalows with no cooking facilities.. Now one can drive to Santubong in 1 hour to a resort with swimming pool and big restaurants. Off course the beach is not what it used to be. It used to be a wide span of beautiful sand, plenty of coconut trees and the sea for your holiday pleasure.

There were no resorts in Kuching in his days, now there are (at his last count) 6 resorts and many are part of the hotel chains. These once beautiful uninterrupted stretched of white clean sandy beaches are now filled with new resorts. In one sense it is wonderful as the locals now have places to go to and not having to fly across the South China Sea to West Malaysia to a holiday. On the other hand, he can see environmental destructions as a result of sewage into the nearby sea and plastic bottles and other man made debris washed up on shore.

Gort Margherita

Fort Margherita

Forty years ago, it was a fair distance to get to most local holiday destination except to Matang at the ‘Red Bridge’ 11th mile and further up the famous heavy deep waterfall at 13th mile, especially when it rained.(a few reported deaths by drowning happened at the waterfall) To get to the ‘red bridge’ a place where there is a deep flowing wide stream for locals to swim and fish, that takes more than an hour. The place at the red bridge at Matang at that time has no bathing facilities. Changing into swimming costume is a

Chinese Museum

Chinese Museum

matter of changing in the bush or inside the car. Now as he headed back to his favorite childhood spot where he first learnt to swim, all he could see was a trickle of water and the deep stream is all but gone. There are a few concrete tables and stools for holiday makers but it does not have the same ambience as before. The natural feel of the place is long gone.

The famous waterfall further up the mountain has also become a figment of his imagination. The waterfall is now no longer majestic and strong and now behaves like Matang Waterfallhow he felt as he thinks back to his childhood days. Weak, sad and lifeless looking environment. The rocks around are full of debris from food wrappings and empty plastic bottles (left behind by holiday campers), the water in the lower part of this once beautiful waterfall is now murky and cloudy. This vision just reminds him and strengthens his thought that one should protect the environment so that the future generation can enjoy what he used to enjoy.

Hotels in Kuching town are few and scattered in those days. He stayed in Fata Hotel and that is considered one of the best hotels of that era. Fata Hotel is still there but now considered a budget hotel. Fata Hotel and Borneo Hotel, (the only 2 hotels in Kuching at that time, as he remembered) used to be considered in the centre of town. The centre of town was literally where the only shopping centre (Electra House) was and also where the Big Bus station was situated

Kuching Waterfront Hotels

Kuching Waterfront Hotels

and where the wet market was situated. There used to be a Ting & Ting Supermarket and that was the only cold storage (imported goods) supermarket in Kuching town. Now there centre of town seems to be where the big hotel such as Holiday Inn, Riverside Hotel, Pullman Hotels & resorts etc are situated. This is also where the bigger and newer shopping centers are situated. Shopping center such as CentrePoint Shopping Centre, Sarawak Plaza, and Parkson are where the younger generations congregate. There is even a Sheraton Hotel further away from town central.!

Time has certainly changed for the better in the town area as Kuching is no longer a town but a  city.

Kuching can now boast about her ability to provide further education for her population. Kuching now have UNIMAS, one of the eighth public universities iAerial View Kuchingn Malaysia. Swinburn University also located in Kuching and a few colleges such as SATT College, SEGi College Sarawak (the only full-fledged private law school in East Malaysia) allows students to

Aerial View Kuching

study in their own hometown without having to fly half way round the world to further their education.


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